Hints & Directions

Paddock Wood Ready Brew kits

paddockGetting Ready

If using Wyeast liquid pure strain culture prepare as per package instructions. Make sure that you have sterilizer and all equipment needed. If necessary allow the Ready Brew to warm up to a minimum of 18 C.

Day One – Starting your Fermentation (30 Minutes)

Wash your 32 litre or larger primary fermenter and lid with StarSan sterilizing solution, making sure to coat all surfaces that will come in contact with your beer.  Sterilize thermometer, hydrometer and stirring spoon.  Syphon or pour beer mixture (wort) into primary.  Transfer all the product including any sediment (trub). Allow the wort to splash in – this will oxygenate the  wort which is necessary for the yeast to start off vigoursly.  Stir well.  Take a hydrometer reading – this is the first step in determining your final alcohol content.  The temperature of the wort  should be between 18 to 25 C (65 to 80 F), add yeast and stir in.  Cover.  Ferment at normal room temperature or as per Wyeast recommendations.  Foam should be evident within 24 hours, if not call your Winning Wines Plus store professionals.

Day Four to Six – Transfer (15 minutes)

The foam should have subsided by now with little obvious activity.  Sterilize syphon assembly, carboy, airlock and rubber bung. Syphon beer into sterilized carboy without splashing while at the same time trying not to disturb the sediment on the bottom of the primary.  If needed top up carboy, using clean boiled and cooled water, to within two inches from the top.  Half fill airlock with water and place airlock / bung on top of carboy. Place carboy on elevated surface.

Day Fourteen – Bottling (45 minutes)

At this point your beer should be clear with no fermentation activity (no bubbles). Sterilize hydrometer.  Record this number to determine your alcohol content.  No bubbles should be passing through the airlock.  Clean and sterilize primary fermentor, hose and beer bottles.  Syphon beer from the carboy to the primary without disturbing the sediment.  Avoid splashing the beer.  Taste beer then add 1 ¼ to 1 ½ cups of dextrose, gently mix well.  Syphon the beer into bottles leaving 1 inch of air space. Stir the beer occasionally to ensure even mixing of the sugar.  Cap.  Store at room temperature for approximately 1 week to allow for carbonation to occur.

Day Twenty One – Sampling (? minutes)

Chill and try your first bottle.  Pour carefully to avoid sediment.  Rinse the bottle since it is much easier to do so now than after the sediment has dried and turned to a concrete hardness.  Your beer should continue to improve until it is approximately three months old.  Enjoy!

 

Helpful Hints

Sterilization is very important. It is the number one factor in producing clean proper tasting beer.  Bleach or soap will taint your beer, resulting in loss of head and an off taste. StarSan is used at most microbreweries and is now available to the home brewer.  Iodopher also works well but is iodine based and stains everything it comes in contact with.

Cleaners or Sanitizers work for removing deposits on dirty equipment.  SparkleBrite (diversol) is an alkaline chlorine salt that is very common.  Powdered Brewery Wash (PBW) is used extensively in breweries and is now available to the home brewer.  PBW is safe for stainless steel and environmently friendly.

All beer kits will benefit from the addition of hop aroma. Make a hop tea by adding hops to  boiling water and steeping for 5 minutes.  Another option is to dry-hop.  This is done by the addition of hops in your primjary fermentor, just float them on top.  Hops can also be added to increase the bitterness / tang of your beer.  Boil the hops with water for up to 1 hour for maximum bitterness. Different hops will give different aromas and bitterness levels.

When starting the wort, add yeast as soon as possible.  Bacteria can and will spoil your wort if left open and unfermented.

We recommend the 2 stage brewing system, simular to what most commercial  breweries use.  You may also use a 1 stage or a blow by system.  Ask about the pros and cons to all the methods.

Leaving your beer in the primary fermenter more than ten days could leave an off taste and airborne bacteria could contaminate your beer.

Keep your beer away from direct sunlight while it is brewing and when it is in the bottles.  Sun-struck beer tastes “skunky”.

The 14-day cycle is a guide only.  The longer the beer stays in the carboy, the more it will age.  Under extremely quick conditions you could bottle as soon as day eight.

Dextrose (corn sugar)  is best for carbonating.  White table sugar is harder to dissolve and is inclined to produce a cidery, fruity beer.

If your beer is not carbonated as much as you like, add more sugar when bottling.  If your beer is over-carbonated, add less sugar when bottling.  Normal sugar amounts are between 1 and 1 3/4 cups of dextrose per 23 litres (5 gallons) of beer.

The more malt in your beer, the better head retention, body and taste. Ready Brew are 100% malt.  No extracts or sugars added.

A little sediment in the bottom of the bottle is normal.  It is high in vitamin B and nutrients, but does not taste great.  Pour your beer into a glass or pitcher and leave behind the last little bit.  This will leave you with a clear, great tasting beer.

It is hard to do, but allowing the beer to age longer will allow it to become even smoother.  Most beers peak at three months.  Homemade beer kept in a cool dark place have a shelf life of about two years.

Instead of bottling, you may wish to keg your beer.  There are two systems, plastic and stainless steel. The stainless system uses bottled CO2 gas. We carry the full line and accessories for both systems.

If you have any questions, please call any

Winning Wines Plus  store.  Home of the Brew Crew Folks.

 

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